SISTERS OF ST. BIRGITTA

 

by Susan Markisz 
for The New York Times

September 14, 2002

 

 

It was a pictorial paradise. Try and conjure up images of "The Flying Nun" and you'll know what I mean. Perhaps it was the subject matter. Whatever it was, the stars seemed to align themselves perfectly on September 14 as I arrived at Vikingsborg, a guest-house run by an order of monastic nuns on the Long Island Sound.

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Sister Sarah of the Sisters of St. Birgitta, goes to check her fishing rod to see what's biting---off the dock of the convent grounds, where guests of Vikingsborg Guest House, spent a leisurely Saturday afternoon on September 14, 2002, relaxing or fishing for snapper. © 2002 Susan B. Markisz for The New York Times

I suppose we'd all like to sink our teeth into some meaty, juicy documentary project where all our pictures are golden, POY winners. Better yet, all our assignments should be about real serious issues like the war in Afghanistan, or the situation in the Middle East...important stuff...and we should get a full page of pictorial validation for our efforts. But since I'm not doing serious these days, I'll take a full page of pictorial ---visual eye candy--- in my backyard, any old day   I't's not often that an assignment comes our way and that old magic just happens by itself. In this case it was more a case of "Be there," than being technically there at f8. Let's just say, this particular day was about the pure joy of photography. I knew the editor might have a hard time choosing---as I did--- from what I shot and I made some suggestions on the cd I sent with the images. They ran nine. So much for one picture being worth a thousand words.

Sister Renzy dashes through the Convent of St. Birgitta, Vikingsborg Guest House, while doing her daily chores. © Susan B. Markisz for The New York Times

Tucked away in the little Connecticut hamlet of Darien, with a million-dollar view of the Long Island Sound, is Vikingsborg, an old estate that was bequeathed by a local woman to the Order of St. Birgitta in 1957. Founded by St. Bridget of Sweden in the 14th century, dedicated to service and hospitality, the order has 600 members throughout the world and operates 30 guesthouses, with Vikingsborg the only one in the United States. Eight sisters, all in full habit, from India, Italy and Mexico, run the bed and breakfast for those seeking solace from the day-to-day hustle and bustle, or those seeking a secular or spiritual retreat. The cost of a room, which includes three meals is $80, including the view!

 

When I arrived (just after lunch, wouldn't you know it), several guests were reading the newspaper, and chatting in the sunroom. It was reallllly quiet. Nothing much appeared to be going on. Sister Renzy brought me some lemonade and I scouted out the place---it was beautiful, with light streaming in from under the eaves and the big picture windows facing the Sound. It was free time in between chores, and Sister Renzy suggested I go ahead and wander around. Sister Sabina, the Mother Superior, she said, was probably down by the dock.

Sister Sabina was deeply ensconced in an apparently ritual (if not exactly spiritual) exercise, in a delicate balancing act on a rocky motor boat that was moored to the dock, her habit, complete with sunhat, flying as she cast about time and again for snappers. I thought if I didn't get anything else, this was my money picture, though there were many more to come. It was like Christmas in cameraland. A moment later, I turned around to see 82 year old Sister Christina, originally from Italy, who has lived at the convent for 45 years, reading on a little hill overlooking the Sound. It was a pastoral paradise.

Sister Sabina wasn't sure she liked the idea of my portrayal of her in the earthly pursuit of fishing, yet she refused to call it a day until Vespers, or afternoon prayers. At 4 o'clock sharp, the sisters gathered in the chapel to pray the Rosary. They sang Gregorian chants and sounded altogether like angels (except for the occasional click of my shutter, and my knees giving out.) After Vespers were over, one of the nuns told me she was praying for me --- and other photojournalists --- because, she said, "the work you do is very beautiful, and very difficult and you need prayers." For a moment, I wondered whether she'd been reading the dire posts on Editorial Photographer!

Sister Sabina, Mother Superior of the Convent of St. Birgitta which operates the Vikingsborg Guest House in Darien,CT, fished for snapper off the dock of the convent grounds, which face the Long Island Sound. © 2002 Susan B. Markisz

Sister Christina Graziosi, a native of Italy, who has lived at the Convent of St. Birgitta in Darien since it opened as a guesthouse and spiritual retreat 45 years ago, enjoys some quiet time on the convent grounds overlooking the Long Island Sound. © 2002 Susan B. Markisz for The New York Times

Sisters of the Convent of St. Birgitta in Darien, CT, are joined in prayer during Vespers on Saturday afternoon at 4pm by one of their guests, Henry Packwood, who is visiting from England. © 2002 Susan B. Markisz for The New York Times

 

 

Sister Christina,who is 82 and has lived at the Convent of St. Birgitta in Darien, CT for 45 years, read the mail on Saturday September 14, 2002. © 2002 Susan B. Markisz for The New York Times

Sister Renzy runs the vacuum in Vikingsborg Guest House. © 2002 Susan B. Markisz for The New York Times

As I ambled from the chapel back into the grand foyer, Sister Renzy was vacuuming the carpet while Sister Christina read the mail and one of the guests stood on the porch waving to boats passing by. Just as suddenly, everyone disappeared and I wondered where they had gone. Meandering down to the dock, I came across a scene that was vaguely surreal. It was nearly dusk now and the nuns were back fishing off the dock, as some of the guests relaxed by a little boat house on the beach. The nuns waved to boaters passing by. Neighbors stopped by to chat and Sister Sabina, who was still on that same rocky boat, looked as if her fishing rod was going to take her aloft as she cast out for about the thousandth time.

Henry Packwood, a guest at Vikingsborg Spiritual Retreat House, run by the Sisters of St. Birgitta, waves to a boat on the Long Island Sound from the steps of the guest house. © 2002 Susan B. Markisz forThe New York Times

Jack and Kathy Haire, neighbors of Vikingsborg Guest House in Darien CT, came to visit the Sisters of St. Birgitta to see what was running in the waters off their dock on the Long Island Sound, on Saturday, September 14, 2002. © 2002 Susan B. Markisz for The New York Times

I knew that dinner couldn't be far off and I went back to the house to photograph food preparations. Sister Regina prepared chicken cutlets and pasta in the kitchen, while Sister Ines set the table in the dining room. They insisted I stay for dinner and I dined with their guests that evening, family style.

Sister Gina prepares chicken cutlets and pasta for dinner for guests staying at Vikingsborg House. © 2002 Susan B. Markisz for The New York Times

Sister Ines sets the table for guests staying at Vikingsborg Guest House. © 2002 Susan B. Markisz for The New York Times

I don't remember when I've had a visually more beautiful assignment. The light was spectacular and it felt spiritual and relaxing to be in this quiet, peaceful place. It was exactly the place I needed to be on September 14^th.

Sister Ines of the Convent of St. Birgitta, served dinner to guests of Vikingsborg House. From left are Henry Packwood, Pat and Mike Murray, and their son Paul. © 2002 Susan B. Markisz for The New York Times

Sister Sarah fished off the dock at sunset on the grounds of the Convent of St. Birgitta in Darien, CT. © 2002 Susan B. Markisz for The New York Times

Susan Markisz

Smarkisz@aol.com